Discovering New Cenotes, Wwestward From Tulum
BY: Mari Pintkowski
Perhaps this is your third or fourth trip to the Riviera Maya and you want to escape the turquoise waves
crashing outside your hotel room, and explore the hidden treasures that lie further inland. But, you’ve already
visited the mesmerizing Mayan ruins of Coba, Chichen Itza, and Ek Balam and their well-known neighboring
cenotes. Follow me as we meander down the Coba Road and investigate a couple of new cenotes that have
recently opened.
Pass up the beautiful well-attended Grand Cenote on your right at Km 4 and continue a few more
kilometers until you see a sign for Ak Tun Ha or Carwash Cenote on the left. Turn left next door where you see a
sign for Zazil Ha Cenote. 200 meters up the bumpy road you catch a glimpse of a pastel chapel draped with a
Mexican banner. Park your car and enter paradise! Sturdy wooden zapote decks wrap around the small blue
cenote and reach out with sandy paths that beacon you to go further to see the native jungle plants and animals.
There are several entries into the crystal waters by way of wooden stair cases where a floating island invites you
to relax after a refreshing swim. The mouth –like opening to a cave reminds you that the Mayans believed that
cenotes were portals to the underworld. Multi-tiered palapa covered decks, laden with tables and chairs carved
from native hardwood trees or colorful swinging hammock chairs, have been built around the cenote. The
caretakers working busily on the grounds informed us that a snack bar would be providing food and beverages
in the near future. Don’t linger too long for another surprise of nature awaits us just ½ hour away passed the
Coba ruins.
Pass the parking lot at the Coba ruins and around the lagoon and turn left and creep through a sleepy
pueblo. Turn right and follow the signs 6 km to Cho Ha Cenote.
On the left you will discover a simple wood and palapa ticket booth with a sign that says, “Boletos Aqui.” Buy
your tickets here for Multun Ha Cenote (If you have not seen the older two cenotes, buy a ticket for all three, as
each has its own flavor and magic.)
Proceed back onto the main road and continue 200 meters more until you see a large sign. Turn right and follow
the dirt road until it ends (about 2 km). Present your ticket and the friendly caretaker will show you to the
showers and changing rooms. Please shower to remove all creams and lotions from your skin. This 65-million-
year old treasure can be destroyed by these chemicals. The passage down is comfortable on a wide and sturdy
spiral enclosed staircase. You are descending 18 meters (about 60 feet) into the earth. The 78 steps and the
large deck below were built by 10 men from the State of Yucatan using a hardwood called zapote negro that was
gathered from forests south of Tulum. Special permits were required to harvest the wood. The staircase was
not built in one of the two natural openings that can be seen from below. The passage-way was dug by hand
and the excavated rock was used to construct the staircase walls and the remainder was used to hold the deck
posts in place.
The cenote was discovered by local Mayans who were searching the forest floor for areas that felt cool and
humid: presto! No one knows why the water appears blue, but its clear freshness is attributed to the fact that it is
part of the subterranean river system that flows under the Yucatan Peninsula toward the Caribbean Sea. There
is a large fan that blows air into the cavern and helps with ventilation. On humid rainy days you may have
difficulty breathing.
When you float on your back and glance up at the natural focalized rock formations, exposed tree roots,
and stalactites hanging above you, it is impossible not to feel a reverence for the exquisite artistry of nature and
the delight of being one of the first to swim in these sacred waters.
Mari Pintkowski and her husband have a boutique hotel in Macario Gomez off the Coba Road at Km 20, www.
laselvamariposa.com. She is also the author of the book Embarking on the Mariposa Trail, available at local
book stores and www.amazon.com.
BY: Mari Pintkowski
Perhaps this is your third or fourth trip to the Riviera Maya and you want to escape the turquoise waves
crashing outside your hotel room, and explore the hidden treasures that lie further inland. But, you’ve already
visited the mesmerizing Mayan ruins of Coba, Chichen Itza, and Ek Balam and their well-known neighboring
cenotes. Follow me as we meander down the Coba Road and investigate a couple of new cenotes that have
recently opened.
Pass up the beautiful well-attended Grand Cenote on your right at Km 4 and continue a few more
kilometers until you see a sign for Ak Tun Ha or Carwash Cenote on the left. Turn left next door where you see a
sign for Zazil Ha Cenote. 200 meters up the bumpy road you catch a glimpse of a pastel chapel draped with a
Mexican banner. Park your car and enter paradise! Sturdy wooden zapote decks wrap around the small blue
cenote and reach out with sandy paths that beacon you to go further to see the native jungle plants and animals.
There are several entries into the crystal waters by way of wooden stair cases where a floating island invites you
to relax after a refreshing swim. The mouth –like opening to a cave reminds you that the Mayans believed that
cenotes were portals to the underworld. Multi-tiered palapa covered decks, laden with tables and chairs carved
from native hardwood trees or colorful swinging hammock chairs, have been built around the cenote. The
caretakers working busily on the grounds informed us that a snack bar would be providing food and beverages
in the near future. Don’t linger too long for another surprise of nature awaits us just ½ hour away passed the
Coba ruins.
Pass the parking lot at the Coba ruins and around the lagoon and turn left and creep through a sleepy
pueblo. Turn right and follow the signs 6 km to Cho Ha Cenote.
On the left you will discover a simple wood and palapa ticket booth with a sign that says, “Boletos Aqui.” Buy
your tickets here for Multun Ha Cenote (If you have not seen the older two cenotes, buy a ticket for all three, as
each has its own flavor and magic.)
Proceed back onto the main road and continue 200 meters more until you see a large sign. Turn right and follow
the dirt road until it ends (about 2 km). Present your ticket and the friendly caretaker will show you to the
showers and changing rooms. Please shower to remove all creams and lotions from your skin. This 65-million-
year old treasure can be destroyed by these chemicals. The passage down is comfortable on a wide and sturdy
spiral enclosed staircase. You are descending 18 meters (about 60 feet) into the earth. The 78 steps and the
large deck below were built by 10 men from the State of Yucatan using a hardwood called zapote negro that was
gathered from forests south of Tulum. Special permits were required to harvest the wood. The staircase was
not built in one of the two natural openings that can be seen from below. The passage-way was dug by hand
and the excavated rock was used to construct the staircase walls and the remainder was used to hold the deck
posts in place.
The cenote was discovered by local Mayans who were searching the forest floor for areas that felt cool and
humid: presto! No one knows why the water appears blue, but its clear freshness is attributed to the fact that it is
part of the subterranean river system that flows under the Yucatan Peninsula toward the Caribbean Sea. There
is a large fan that blows air into the cavern and helps with ventilation. On humid rainy days you may have
difficulty breathing.
When you float on your back and glance up at the natural focalized rock formations, exposed tree roots,
and stalactites hanging above you, it is impossible not to feel a reverence for the exquisite artistry of nature and
the delight of being one of the first to swim in these sacred waters.
Mari Pintkowski and her husband have a boutique hotel in Macario Gomez off the Coba Road at Km 20, www.
laselvamariposa.com. She is also the author of the book Embarking on the Mariposa Trail, available at local
book stores and www.amazon.com.
La Selva Mariposa
Elegant Jungle Bed and Breakfast
Elegant Jungle Bed and Breakfast
 |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |
| | | | | | | |
| All content copyright La Selva Mariposa, S.A. de C.V. 2006 |
Discovering Secrets of the Mayan Riviera: Part 1
By: Mari Pintkowski
So, you have decided to take a vacation and are searching for that special piece of paradise. If you have
narrowed your search to Mexico’s Riviera Maya, bordered on one side by the multi-hued Caribbean and the
lush jungle on the other, I invite you to consider the Tulum area, south of Playa del Carmen, with its world class
beaches dotted with many interesting hotels to call home during your stay.
The sun, sand and wind are very dramatic along the coast, but you may find that they will drain rather than
invigorate you after a few days. This is the time to think about what else this tropical region has to offer the
interested traveler. Let me be your guide and introduce you to the wonders that lie beyond the silky white sand
and turquoise waters.
Head west from the beach toward Highway 307 and pick up provisions in the bustling town of Tulum. Our first
stop is at La Flor de Tulum, a small fruit market just south of the Municipal Police station, to select some tasty
treats. Don’t forget to bring along an authentic Mexican bolsa (woven bag, sold for about $5 at most shops
along the way) for your fruits and nuts. In this colorful environment, with piñatas hanging from the palapa roof
and fruits and vegetables of every color and texture, you will not be able to resist taking your camera out for a
few photos of the artfully arranged produce.
Off we go, back north along the highway toward the stop light at the intersection of the beach road and the
road to the Coba ruins. Turn left and stop at San Francisco Supermarket on the right or the little convenience
store on the left to pick up a cooler, some ice, cold beverages and a few more snacks. Soon a new
international airport will be constructed off this road that will change the character of the journey into the heart
of the Mayan lands along the Coba Road that you are about to experience.
Let the colorful butterflies be your guide and keep your eyes open for sights along the way that invite you to
discover nature, firsthand. I suggest a stop at The Grand Cenote (less than 5 minutes from the interaction)
which is magical with its white sandy bottom, and turquoise waters hidden beneath an array of stalactites and
stalagmites. Slip into your swim suit in the changing room and slide into the cool waters surrounded by the
jungle. If the parking lot is full, venture farther and explore the open-air Carwash Cenote, Aktun Ha, on your left
for an invigorating swim. Cenotes are fresh water sink holes that opened up during the ice age when the
underground rivers began to flow, causing the limestone surface to crack and reveal a treasure unique to this
part of the world. Cenotes have a mystical feel that fades easily when there is a crowd splashing in the water,
so avoid those with parking lots full of tour buses.
Traveling down the newly paved and widened Coba Road you will see glimpses of life in Mayan villages and
small rancheros along the way moving at a very slow pace. Maybe you will see a crew of local artisans
constructing a palapa roof of either palm fronds or long, slender grass called zacate, a distinctive feature of
traditional Mayan homes that has been adopted by many newcomers to the Yucatan. Along the way you may
pass bent over figures clearing the roadside weeds by hand using a sharp, curved tool, or a man pedaling a
three-wheel tricycle filled with wood for open-air cooking or transporting his family home after working in the
milpa or community corn field.
When you see the colorful VW bus on the left in front of a collection of simple houses at about Km 10 stop to
see what Eric and the other artists are carving from chunks of limestone using simple tools and inspired by their
personal visions of ancient gods and jungle creatures. They may even have a few finished pieces to sell. For a
short time, you will forget that just days ago you arrived as a tourist at Cancun, one of the busiest tourist
airports in the world.
This rural land from Km 15 onward on either side of the road through the first pueblo was deeded to the
families in this village by the Mexican government and is referred to as Macario Gomez ejido land. You will
notice small roads leading into the jungle cut in many spots along the road, an indication of development by
Mexicans and foreigners setting down new roots.
The first tope (speed bump. If you are driving, you will soon learn to respect these traffic-calming devices)
indicates that you are approaching Macario Gomez, the first of the three Mayan pueblos along the highway
leading to the Coba ruins.
If you haven’t made your reservations for the night, here is an elegant jungle B&B, La Selva Mariposa, located
just 50 meters off the main road to the north, behind the Oasis beer store at the start of the village. Even better,
make your reservations before you leave Tulum. (www.laselvamariposa.com) .
Turn right just after the tope and meander down the short, semi-paved road through a lush jungle to the
entrance of the bed and breakfast retreat announced by the carved sign of the butterfly (mariposa). Turn into
the tree lined drive-way just past the old road. As you get out of your car under the covered car-park you will
hear the splashing of waterfalls inviting you to linger in this haven of tranquility. You will find a cenote plunge-
pool, an assortment of Mayan style waterfalls, gardens with over 300 different plants; including colorful orchids
that hang from the towering trees above and vines that seem to curl before your eyes. The gardens are
shimmering with butterflies, hanging beaded sculptures, and native birds. The rooms at La Selva (the jungle)
are cool and tastefully decorated in fabrics and art gathered from trips to Guatemala and local artesian shops
along the Coba road. Your refrigerator will be stocked with beer and fruit juices to begin your siesta hour in a
swinging hammock under a whirling fan beside the pool.
As the day cools off you may want to talk to your hosts about preparing a meal for you at the B&B, or jump
back in your car and meander further along the Coba road past shops selling Mexican-made blankets,
hammocks, jewelry, and carved treasures of wood and stone. This is by far the best place in all of the Riviera
Maya to do your souvenir shopping. If you opt to find dinner along the highway, I recommend that you stop at
Tomy’s in the village of Francisco Hu May for some local fare before returning to your oasis at La Selva
Mariposa. Recently a clean, restaurant in walking distance has opened in Macario Gomez. The ceviche is
divine!
As the sun sinks lower and the night chorus of birds finds its voice, our hosts at La Selva Mariposa, a lively
couple who retired here from Colorado, will prepare a frosty margarita or chilled wine to sip on pool-side while
they share their secrets of the best places to visit tomorrow when you strike off down the western road: the
magnificent Coba, more mystical cenote adventures and much more.
Article compliments of Mari Pintkowski, author of Embarking on the Mariposa Trail. Book available at Mezzanine
gift shop in Tulum beach and www.amazon.com.
By: Mari Pintkowski
So, you have decided to take a vacation and are searching for that special piece of paradise. If you have
narrowed your search to Mexico’s Riviera Maya, bordered on one side by the multi-hued Caribbean and the
lush jungle on the other, I invite you to consider the Tulum area, south of Playa del Carmen, with its world class
beaches dotted with many interesting hotels to call home during your stay.
The sun, sand and wind are very dramatic along the coast, but you may find that they will drain rather than
invigorate you after a few days. This is the time to think about what else this tropical region has to offer the
interested traveler. Let me be your guide and introduce you to the wonders that lie beyond the silky white sand
and turquoise waters.
Head west from the beach toward Highway 307 and pick up provisions in the bustling town of Tulum. Our first
stop is at La Flor de Tulum, a small fruit market just south of the Municipal Police station, to select some tasty
treats. Don’t forget to bring along an authentic Mexican bolsa (woven bag, sold for about $5 at most shops
along the way) for your fruits and nuts. In this colorful environment, with piñatas hanging from the palapa roof
and fruits and vegetables of every color and texture, you will not be able to resist taking your camera out for a
few photos of the artfully arranged produce.
Off we go, back north along the highway toward the stop light at the intersection of the beach road and the
road to the Coba ruins. Turn left and stop at San Francisco Supermarket on the right or the little convenience
store on the left to pick up a cooler, some ice, cold beverages and a few more snacks. Soon a new
international airport will be constructed off this road that will change the character of the journey into the heart
of the Mayan lands along the Coba Road that you are about to experience.
Let the colorful butterflies be your guide and keep your eyes open for sights along the way that invite you to
discover nature, firsthand. I suggest a stop at The Grand Cenote (less than 5 minutes from the interaction)
which is magical with its white sandy bottom, and turquoise waters hidden beneath an array of stalactites and
stalagmites. Slip into your swim suit in the changing room and slide into the cool waters surrounded by the
jungle. If the parking lot is full, venture farther and explore the open-air Carwash Cenote, Aktun Ha, on your left
for an invigorating swim. Cenotes are fresh water sink holes that opened up during the ice age when the
underground rivers began to flow, causing the limestone surface to crack and reveal a treasure unique to this
part of the world. Cenotes have a mystical feel that fades easily when there is a crowd splashing in the water,
so avoid those with parking lots full of tour buses.
Traveling down the newly paved and widened Coba Road you will see glimpses of life in Mayan villages and
small rancheros along the way moving at a very slow pace. Maybe you will see a crew of local artisans
constructing a palapa roof of either palm fronds or long, slender grass called zacate, a distinctive feature of
traditional Mayan homes that has been adopted by many newcomers to the Yucatan. Along the way you may
pass bent over figures clearing the roadside weeds by hand using a sharp, curved tool, or a man pedaling a
three-wheel tricycle filled with wood for open-air cooking or transporting his family home after working in the
milpa or community corn field.
When you see the colorful VW bus on the left in front of a collection of simple houses at about Km 10 stop to
see what Eric and the other artists are carving from chunks of limestone using simple tools and inspired by their
personal visions of ancient gods and jungle creatures. They may even have a few finished pieces to sell. For a
short time, you will forget that just days ago you arrived as a tourist at Cancun, one of the busiest tourist
airports in the world.
This rural land from Km 15 onward on either side of the road through the first pueblo was deeded to the
families in this village by the Mexican government and is referred to as Macario Gomez ejido land. You will
notice small roads leading into the jungle cut in many spots along the road, an indication of development by
Mexicans and foreigners setting down new roots.
The first tope (speed bump. If you are driving, you will soon learn to respect these traffic-calming devices)
indicates that you are approaching Macario Gomez, the first of the three Mayan pueblos along the highway
leading to the Coba ruins.
If you haven’t made your reservations for the night, here is an elegant jungle B&B, La Selva Mariposa, located
just 50 meters off the main road to the north, behind the Oasis beer store at the start of the village. Even better,
make your reservations before you leave Tulum. (www.laselvamariposa.com) .
Turn right just after the tope and meander down the short, semi-paved road through a lush jungle to the
entrance of the bed and breakfast retreat announced by the carved sign of the butterfly (mariposa). Turn into
the tree lined drive-way just past the old road. As you get out of your car under the covered car-park you will
hear the splashing of waterfalls inviting you to linger in this haven of tranquility. You will find a cenote plunge-
pool, an assortment of Mayan style waterfalls, gardens with over 300 different plants; including colorful orchids
that hang from the towering trees above and vines that seem to curl before your eyes. The gardens are
shimmering with butterflies, hanging beaded sculptures, and native birds. The rooms at La Selva (the jungle)
are cool and tastefully decorated in fabrics and art gathered from trips to Guatemala and local artesian shops
along the Coba road. Your refrigerator will be stocked with beer and fruit juices to begin your siesta hour in a
swinging hammock under a whirling fan beside the pool.
As the day cools off you may want to talk to your hosts about preparing a meal for you at the B&B, or jump
back in your car and meander further along the Coba road past shops selling Mexican-made blankets,
hammocks, jewelry, and carved treasures of wood and stone. This is by far the best place in all of the Riviera
Maya to do your souvenir shopping. If you opt to find dinner along the highway, I recommend that you stop at
Tomy’s in the village of Francisco Hu May for some local fare before returning to your oasis at La Selva
Mariposa. Recently a clean, restaurant in walking distance has opened in Macario Gomez. The ceviche is
divine!
As the sun sinks lower and the night chorus of birds finds its voice, our hosts at La Selva Mariposa, a lively
couple who retired here from Colorado, will prepare a frosty margarita or chilled wine to sip on pool-side while
they share their secrets of the best places to visit tomorrow when you strike off down the western road: the
magnificent Coba, more mystical cenote adventures and much more.
Article compliments of Mari Pintkowski, author of Embarking on the Mariposa Trail. Book available at Mezzanine
gift shop in Tulum beach and www.amazon.com.
Articles
(scroll down to see all the articles)
(scroll down to see all the articles)
The Wilder West of Tulum
by Mari Pintowski
Travel westward in the cool morning hours toward the ancient ruins of Coba on a newly improved highway,
bordered by verdant jungle. I invite you to explore each of the three pueblos you encounter along the way;
Macario Gomez, Francisco Hu May, and Manuel Antonio. The topes (speed bumps) in each village will slow your
pace so that you will be able to catch a glimpse of a daily life of the people who live in the wood and palapa
structures in the villages and the smiling faces of their children. There they go, heading for school or walking
towards home holding a bundle of warm tortillas with a few skinny, street dogs trailing behind hoping for a tasty
morsel of food. You may see a Mayan mamacita with a baby wrapped in her shawl, or a few turkeys pecking at
who-knows-what in the middle of the unpaved side streets. Smell the chicken cooking on the open-air grill in
front of a restaurant or grocery store and notice the inviting open-air souvenir stalls.
But don’t linger now in these shops selling Mayan treasures along the highway. There will be time for that on
the way back to the B&B later in the day. Lean your head out of the window and listen for the concert of the
jungle birds, and observe the many species of butterflies frolicking in the breeze and hurry on to the ruins
before the many tour vans and buses arrive around 10:00.
At the first large round-about (20 min. from the first pueblo), follow the signs to Coba. After passing the town
cemetery, baseball field, post office and a few small hotels and restaurants, you will approach the large
shimmering lagoon inhabited by a few well-fed crocodiles. Turn left and park in the car-park and move toward
the ticket booth in front of the archaeological site.
Coba lies deep in the medium-growth tropical forests of Quintana Roo. If you arrive even earlier, by 7:30 am,
you may be lucky enough to see a spider monkey or colorful Toucan in the towering trees overhead, but once
the crowds arrive the animals retreat to their hiding places till the sun sets.
I encourage you to hire a guide; many of them speak English. This will enhance your tour experience, and you
will walk away with stories not found in a guide book. Even though each guide has been trained in the history
and archeology of Coba, they each bring stories handed down from generation to generation to enrich the tour.
There is no written history of the Mayan civilization.
You will see ruins of one of the largest Mayan cities of the Classic Period (300 – 900 AD). One of the two ball
courts has been reconstructed recently, and only 95% of the estimated buildings are excavated. Observe
examples of pure Mayan architecture which include: the corbel arch, rounded corners on the temples, gigantic
staelas (carved plaques telling about the ruling king and his family), and structures built on top of ones from
earlier periods. The most delightful part of the Coba ruins is the tall jungle that you navigate through from one
grouping to another. At the end of the short, hour-long tour, you can continue with your guide or decide to
explore on your own. Rent a bicycle for a reasonable rate and pedal through the rest of the park. We often
hire a three-wheel tricycle with a colorful umbrella and a driver and sit back to soak in the jungle ambiance, and
to speculate about the many mysterious mounds that have yet to be freed from their prisons of vines and trees
that surround you.
Close you eyes and envision a culture that migrated here from the jungles of Guatemala and built one of the
largest cities in the Mayan world. Save some energy to climb the 12-story pyramid, Nohouch Mul. At the top of
the pyramid you can view two lagoons, tops of pyramids nestled in the jungle and the carvings of the god of the
bees. For those who have a fear of heights, grab onto the rope at the center of the stairs and creep down
backwards and silently depart this ancient city of commerce along what remains of the sac bes, or white roads.
As you leave the Coba parking lot, turn left and drive to the cenotes that are less than 15 minutes away along
the road that winds around the lagoon. The sign age is good and the road is superb. At km. 3 you will see Koopi-
ox, and area with a zip-line through the trees where you are able to float over an open cenote. Don’t stop now,
but hurry to Choo ha and Tankah ha cenotes before the tour buses arrive. Tell the attendant you want to visit
both underground sink-holes.
Proceed to the second cenote, Tankah ha, and the attendant will ask you to shower first to remove sunscreen
and other pollutants. The caretakers are trying their best to preserve this jewel for future generations. Gather
your courage and enter the underground magic of this dimly lit place by way of a somewhat spooky-wooden,
spiral staircase. Your eyes will soon focus on an amazingly large, deep pool of crystal clear water below you.
On your way down you pass several diving platforms protruding out into the darkness to entice you to plunge in
and submerge yourself in this transparent world. It is fun have a mask and snorkel to see the rock formations
below the surface and the small catfish that live here. There are life-vests provided for those who want them.
When your body is cool and you are refreshed and ready for more surprises, climb back up to the surface and
drive back along the sandy road to the first cenote, Choo ha, to explore this underground cavern decorated by
nature with fantastically shaped stalactites and stalagmites. Don’t miss the opportunity for one more swim before
leaving.
If you have a bit more adventure left in you, stop to soar on the zip-line above a Mayan jungle that you passed
earlier. Or you may be listening to your growling stomach telling you it is time to sample some Yucatecan food
back in Coba at one of the restaurants that border the ruins. For an upscale meal in relaxing and elegant
surroundings, I’d advise you to drive to the Club Med Villa Archaeological at the end of the lagoon road. Here
you can sip a cocktail while your meal is prepared, or take a dip in the hotel’s tiled pool surrounded by a lush
tropical garden.
It is officially siesta time in Mexico and you can linger by the pool until you are ready to meander back to your
jungle retreat. I always think that this is a good time to stop at some of the inviting shopping palapas along the
way to purchase authentic souvenirs such as: hammocks, carved masks, museum quality plaques carved out of
wood or stone, or brilliantly woven and embroidered table cloths.
I recommend the last artesian shop on the left as you depart Manuel Antonio, the first pueblo. The artist,
Miguel and his English/German speaking wife, Beatriz, have a wide assortment of fine crafts and each one
comes with a story to describe and remember your treasure.
For a delightful change of pace, check into La Selva Mariposa, an elegant jungle retreat just off the Coba road
in the last pueblo, Macario Gomez that you drive through on your journey back to the coast. www.
laselvamariposa.com
Hungry again? Ready for a sunset cocktail overlooking the sea? Remember that you are only 15 minutes from
the beach in Tulum to the East, and the stars are shining bright and inviting you to dine under their dim
romantic light at the Mezzanine or one of the other restaurants on the beach. Maybe you’ll be lucky enough to
watch the moon rise over the Caribbean. Enjoy a delicious dinner and a stroll on the beach before returning to
your jungle oasis off the Coba road to fall asleep with the soft sound of the flowing waterfall outside your casita
and dream of all you have encountered today on your back-door tour into the world of the ancient Mayans.
Mari Pintkowski is author of a newly published book, Embarking on the Mariposa Trail, about following a dream
to build a B&B south of the border. The book is available at the Mezzanine on Tulum Beach.
by Mari Pintowski
Travel westward in the cool morning hours toward the ancient ruins of Coba on a newly improved highway,
bordered by verdant jungle. I invite you to explore each of the three pueblos you encounter along the way;
Macario Gomez, Francisco Hu May, and Manuel Antonio. The topes (speed bumps) in each village will slow your
pace so that you will be able to catch a glimpse of a daily life of the people who live in the wood and palapa
structures in the villages and the smiling faces of their children. There they go, heading for school or walking
towards home holding a bundle of warm tortillas with a few skinny, street dogs trailing behind hoping for a tasty
morsel of food. You may see a Mayan mamacita with a baby wrapped in her shawl, or a few turkeys pecking at
who-knows-what in the middle of the unpaved side streets. Smell the chicken cooking on the open-air grill in
front of a restaurant or grocery store and notice the inviting open-air souvenir stalls.
But don’t linger now in these shops selling Mayan treasures along the highway. There will be time for that on
the way back to the B&B later in the day. Lean your head out of the window and listen for the concert of the
jungle birds, and observe the many species of butterflies frolicking in the breeze and hurry on to the ruins
before the many tour vans and buses arrive around 10:00.
At the first large round-about (20 min. from the first pueblo), follow the signs to Coba. After passing the town
cemetery, baseball field, post office and a few small hotels and restaurants, you will approach the large
shimmering lagoon inhabited by a few well-fed crocodiles. Turn left and park in the car-park and move toward
the ticket booth in front of the archaeological site.
Coba lies deep in the medium-growth tropical forests of Quintana Roo. If you arrive even earlier, by 7:30 am,
you may be lucky enough to see a spider monkey or colorful Toucan in the towering trees overhead, but once
the crowds arrive the animals retreat to their hiding places till the sun sets.
I encourage you to hire a guide; many of them speak English. This will enhance your tour experience, and you
will walk away with stories not found in a guide book. Even though each guide has been trained in the history
and archeology of Coba, they each bring stories handed down from generation to generation to enrich the tour.
There is no written history of the Mayan civilization.
You will see ruins of one of the largest Mayan cities of the Classic Period (300 – 900 AD). One of the two ball
courts has been reconstructed recently, and only 95% of the estimated buildings are excavated. Observe
examples of pure Mayan architecture which include: the corbel arch, rounded corners on the temples, gigantic
staelas (carved plaques telling about the ruling king and his family), and structures built on top of ones from
earlier periods. The most delightful part of the Coba ruins is the tall jungle that you navigate through from one
grouping to another. At the end of the short, hour-long tour, you can continue with your guide or decide to
explore on your own. Rent a bicycle for a reasonable rate and pedal through the rest of the park. We often
hire a three-wheel tricycle with a colorful umbrella and a driver and sit back to soak in the jungle ambiance, and
to speculate about the many mysterious mounds that have yet to be freed from their prisons of vines and trees
that surround you.
Close you eyes and envision a culture that migrated here from the jungles of Guatemala and built one of the
largest cities in the Mayan world. Save some energy to climb the 12-story pyramid, Nohouch Mul. At the top of
the pyramid you can view two lagoons, tops of pyramids nestled in the jungle and the carvings of the god of the
bees. For those who have a fear of heights, grab onto the rope at the center of the stairs and creep down
backwards and silently depart this ancient city of commerce along what remains of the sac bes, or white roads.
As you leave the Coba parking lot, turn left and drive to the cenotes that are less than 15 minutes away along
the road that winds around the lagoon. The sign age is good and the road is superb. At km. 3 you will see Koopi-
ox, and area with a zip-line through the trees where you are able to float over an open cenote. Don’t stop now,
but hurry to Choo ha and Tankah ha cenotes before the tour buses arrive. Tell the attendant you want to visit
both underground sink-holes.
Proceed to the second cenote, Tankah ha, and the attendant will ask you to shower first to remove sunscreen
and other pollutants. The caretakers are trying their best to preserve this jewel for future generations. Gather
your courage and enter the underground magic of this dimly lit place by way of a somewhat spooky-wooden,
spiral staircase. Your eyes will soon focus on an amazingly large, deep pool of crystal clear water below you.
On your way down you pass several diving platforms protruding out into the darkness to entice you to plunge in
and submerge yourself in this transparent world. It is fun have a mask and snorkel to see the rock formations
below the surface and the small catfish that live here. There are life-vests provided for those who want them.
When your body is cool and you are refreshed and ready for more surprises, climb back up to the surface and
drive back along the sandy road to the first cenote, Choo ha, to explore this underground cavern decorated by
nature with fantastically shaped stalactites and stalagmites. Don’t miss the opportunity for one more swim before
leaving.
If you have a bit more adventure left in you, stop to soar on the zip-line above a Mayan jungle that you passed
earlier. Or you may be listening to your growling stomach telling you it is time to sample some Yucatecan food
back in Coba at one of the restaurants that border the ruins. For an upscale meal in relaxing and elegant
surroundings, I’d advise you to drive to the Club Med Villa Archaeological at the end of the lagoon road. Here
you can sip a cocktail while your meal is prepared, or take a dip in the hotel’s tiled pool surrounded by a lush
tropical garden.
It is officially siesta time in Mexico and you can linger by the pool until you are ready to meander back to your
jungle retreat. I always think that this is a good time to stop at some of the inviting shopping palapas along the
way to purchase authentic souvenirs such as: hammocks, carved masks, museum quality plaques carved out of
wood or stone, or brilliantly woven and embroidered table cloths.
I recommend the last artesian shop on the left as you depart Manuel Antonio, the first pueblo. The artist,
Miguel and his English/German speaking wife, Beatriz, have a wide assortment of fine crafts and each one
comes with a story to describe and remember your treasure.
For a delightful change of pace, check into La Selva Mariposa, an elegant jungle retreat just off the Coba road
in the last pueblo, Macario Gomez that you drive through on your journey back to the coast. www.
laselvamariposa.com
Hungry again? Ready for a sunset cocktail overlooking the sea? Remember that you are only 15 minutes from
the beach in Tulum to the East, and the stars are shining bright and inviting you to dine under their dim
romantic light at the Mezzanine or one of the other restaurants on the beach. Maybe you’ll be lucky enough to
watch the moon rise over the Caribbean. Enjoy a delicious dinner and a stroll on the beach before returning to
your jungle oasis off the Coba road to fall asleep with the soft sound of the flowing waterfall outside your casita
and dream of all you have encountered today on your back-door tour into the world of the ancient Mayans.
Mari Pintkowski is author of a newly published book, Embarking on the Mariposa Trail, about following a dream
to build a B&B south of the border. The book is available at the Mezzanine on Tulum Beach.
Exploring the Yucatan: Where East meets West, or Does It?
by Mari Pintowski
Macario Gomez, a small Mayan village on the Coba Road, just 15 minutes from the sparkling sands of Tulum
Beach, might seem like an unlikely place to begin a tour into the heart of the Yucatan, but consider this: You
wake up refreshed and replenished from a night at an elegant jungle retreat, La Selva Mariposa, and want to
see MORE. More ruins, more cenotes, more pueblos, more history, and more culture! Over a platter of
tropical fruit and cinnamon-flavored French toast and a mound of crisp bacon, your hosts at the B&B describe
a ruin site less than an hour away where East meets West. You are intrigued to see for yourself the sculptures
that are strangely similar to ones that were found at Angkor Wat in Cambodia. With the elusive butterfly
(mariposa) as your guide, begin your day by heading West on the Coba Road in the direction of Valladolid and
beyond, to the stunning ruins of Ek Balam.
At the round-about leading to Coba in one direction (20 min. from Macario), take the straight road to
Valladolid and follow the signs to Highway 295 leading to the Cancun Cuota. You will be following signs that
lead in the direction of Tizimin by way of Temazon. Temazon is an interesting village that specializes in smoked
sausages, and it also has an array of carpenter shops that make furniture, doors and windows out of the local
tropical wood. The town square and market are always bustling with activity where the residents can be seen
with their plaid bolsas (shopping bags) stuffed with cilantro, avocados and tortillas, or sitting on their tri-cycles,
that serve as local taxicabs. The buildings of Temazon are getting a face-lift and the park is being remodeled.
The ancient, stone Catholic Church across from the park is still the center of life for many of the families.
Your destination is the ruins of Ek Balam, only a few miles from Temazon, so keep a look out for the signs to
the archeological site. Parking is free and the modest entrance fee will leave plenty in your wallet to hire a tour
guide (about $20). You will be amazed at the insight these gentlemen have into the life of the civilization that
continuously inhabited the site from 600 AD until 1545.
There is evidence in the architecture of Ek Balam that other civilizations, like the Toltecs around the year 900
AD, inhabited the city and blended their culture and traditions with those of the Mayan. The Spaniards arrived
in 1579 and found an abandoned city covered by tightly woven jungle vines with crumbling buildings buried
beneath them.
Because the only written history of the Mayans was destroyed by the Spaniards, we have only stories handed
down from one generation to another, and the drawings and carvings found buried under mounds of rock to tell
us about the life and customs of these interesting people. From these sources, we have learned that the
ancient Mayans built splendid temples, palaces and roads, maintained a harmonious relationship with nature,
consulted the stars and venerated their twenty-one gods.
One of the architectural ingredients that made Ek Balam unique was the fact that the city was built behind
three walls. Historians know that the walls were used for protection, even though they were only three or four
feet tall. The thick, low walls were perhaps a base for a wooden fence built on top to give additional protection.
Stone from a third wall remain today connecting each of the buildings in the main quadrangle.
Who were the enemies and what were the inhabitants of Ek Balam protecting? In the 3,600 square kilometer
area inhabited by Mayans, all was not tranquil. Ek Balam had discovered a source of salt, which was as
valuable as gold, and this precious commodity needed guarding. In the post-classic period near the turn of the
century, the Aztec and Toltec warriors began taking over near-by Chichen-itza and Tulum. The people of Ek
Balam used several strategies to protect the sacred sites from intruders. One of the statues even has carved
figures perched on the eye lids of the monster. Archaeologists believe the purpose of these figures were there
to hold the monsters eyelids open to constantly watch for danger.
You will enter the central area of this 12 square kilometer city as the ancient ones did by being forced to bend
your body in reverence as you walk forward up a steep ramp and proceed through the spectacular corbel arch
that is uniquely open on all four sides. You will see two indented stones on the floor, just big enough to fit a
foot. Perhaps this was a purifying ritual that was required before entering the sacred city? Because of the
steepness of the ramp leading down from the arch into the city, it is believed that it was customary to precede
down backwards with your body, once again, bent in reverence to the gods.
Many of the buildings surrounding the site were actually used as living quarters. Shards of pottery used for
daily living were found inside the ruins, along with built-in stone beds. Some of the remains of the paintings on
the walls inside these structures showed people sitting in the lotus position on pillows. Did you know that the
early Mayans did not sleep in hammocks? These were introduced to the Yucatan peninsula with the arrival of
the Spaniards who brought with them natives they picked up along the way in the Caribbean Islands who were
accustomed to sleeping in these woven beds.
Fifty-two structures have been found to date, and include many that were believed to have been used for
religious purposes, while others were for administration, daily living, or games. The outside of these buildings
were plastered and painted red, and the interior walls were painted yellow and decorated with frescos painted
in a palate of colors derived from native plants. One of the two ball courts excavated has been restored to its
original splendor. At the far end of the historical site sits the building known as the Acropolis. This spectacular
building is the second largest of its kind in the Yucatan. The largest is in the “yellow city” of Izamal.
In 2000 the royal tomb was discovered behind the imposing open-mouth of the monster located half-way up an
impressive stairway. In the past, this image was believed to be a jaguar, as the name Ek Balam means black
jaguar or bright star jaguar. With further study and investigation, archaeologists know that the coxox or witz
monster at the entrance of the tomb is a mixture of all the creatures that inhabit the earth. It has combined
qualities of a feline, a serpent, and a human. The tomb is guarded by a winged human-like creature on either
side of the opening that was believed to lead to the underworld. We know the Mayans did not believe in
angels, hence another mystery. These winged creatures may have been ancestors, as they have club feet,
and other deformities. The deformities were a result of the inbreeding between members of the royal family.
The statues guarding the eyes of the monster were very similar to statues found in Cambodia. Juan, one of
the assistant archaeologists, that were involved in the most recent excavation, told us that he believes that the
connection between these two distant cultures is only a myth. He personally did not discover any remnants of
pottery or jewelry from the Eastern culture inside the tomb, and he will vouch for the fact that the stature is a
young man, not a woman as in the Cambodian statues.
The human remains of a royal person were found inside the mouth of the monster. Buried with his bones
were over 7,000 treasures including jewelry, shells, and clay vessels. Three objects had the name of the royal
king, Kulh Nal, on them and the elongated shape of the skull found in the tomb indicated indeed this person
was of royal linage.
As is typical in other Mayan ruin sites, there is evidence that structures were built upon structures. There
could have been as many as six layers built, and rebuilt over the 1,200 years the city was inhabited. The story
of Ek Balam is still emerging, and only future excavations and studies will tell whether there actually was a
direct connection to the Far East.
After touring the ruins, you must be ready to relax your mind and body, so hook up with the Mayans at the
entrance of the park who will take you on a one- mile bike ride to the amazing cenote of X’canche where you
can rappel by a rope and harness to the bottom of the deep cavern 60 feet below to swim in the cool, sacred
water. For the faint of heart, there is now a set of stairs where you can enter and exit the cenote. The local
villagers who manage this hidden treasure are working each day to improve this area and soon the masses of
tourists will arrive, so plan a trip to visit this area of the Yucatan without delay.
Driving out of the archaeological site, on the right about 100 meters down the dirt road, you will see a small
open air restaurant. Stop for some delicious ceviche and a cold beer with plenty of lime slices before letting the
mariposas lead you back to your elegant jungle B&B.
Articles written by Mari Pintkowski, author of Embarking on the Mariposa Trail now available on www.amazon.
com, as well as the Mezzanine boutique, Alma Libre in Puerto Morelos, and Mundo Book Store in Playa del
Carmen. Mari and her husband own the jungle retreat near Tulum www.laselvamariposa.com
by Mari Pintowski
Macario Gomez, a small Mayan village on the Coba Road, just 15 minutes from the sparkling sands of Tulum
Beach, might seem like an unlikely place to begin a tour into the heart of the Yucatan, but consider this: You
wake up refreshed and replenished from a night at an elegant jungle retreat, La Selva Mariposa, and want to
see MORE. More ruins, more cenotes, more pueblos, more history, and more culture! Over a platter of
tropical fruit and cinnamon-flavored French toast and a mound of crisp bacon, your hosts at the B&B describe
a ruin site less than an hour away where East meets West. You are intrigued to see for yourself the sculptures
that are strangely similar to ones that were found at Angkor Wat in Cambodia. With the elusive butterfly
(mariposa) as your guide, begin your day by heading West on the Coba Road in the direction of Valladolid and
beyond, to the stunning ruins of Ek Balam.
At the round-about leading to Coba in one direction (20 min. from Macario), take the straight road to
Valladolid and follow the signs to Highway 295 leading to the Cancun Cuota. You will be following signs that
lead in the direction of Tizimin by way of Temazon. Temazon is an interesting village that specializes in smoked
sausages, and it also has an array of carpenter shops that make furniture, doors and windows out of the local
tropical wood. The town square and market are always bustling with activity where the residents can be seen
with their plaid bolsas (shopping bags) stuffed with cilantro, avocados and tortillas, or sitting on their tri-cycles,
that serve as local taxicabs. The buildings of Temazon are getting a face-lift and the park is being remodeled.
The ancient, stone Catholic Church across from the park is still the center of life for many of the families.
Your destination is the ruins of Ek Balam, only a few miles from Temazon, so keep a look out for the signs to
the archeological site. Parking is free and the modest entrance fee will leave plenty in your wallet to hire a tour
guide (about $20). You will be amazed at the insight these gentlemen have into the life of the civilization that
continuously inhabited the site from 600 AD until 1545.
There is evidence in the architecture of Ek Balam that other civilizations, like the Toltecs around the year 900
AD, inhabited the city and blended their culture and traditions with those of the Mayan. The Spaniards arrived
in 1579 and found an abandoned city covered by tightly woven jungle vines with crumbling buildings buried
beneath them.
Because the only written history of the Mayans was destroyed by the Spaniards, we have only stories handed
down from one generation to another, and the drawings and carvings found buried under mounds of rock to tell
us about the life and customs of these interesting people. From these sources, we have learned that the
ancient Mayans built splendid temples, palaces and roads, maintained a harmonious relationship with nature,
consulted the stars and venerated their twenty-one gods.
One of the architectural ingredients that made Ek Balam unique was the fact that the city was built behind
three walls. Historians know that the walls were used for protection, even though they were only three or four
feet tall. The thick, low walls were perhaps a base for a wooden fence built on top to give additional protection.
Stone from a third wall remain today connecting each of the buildings in the main quadrangle.
Who were the enemies and what were the inhabitants of Ek Balam protecting? In the 3,600 square kilometer
area inhabited by Mayans, all was not tranquil. Ek Balam had discovered a source of salt, which was as
valuable as gold, and this precious commodity needed guarding. In the post-classic period near the turn of the
century, the Aztec and Toltec warriors began taking over near-by Chichen-itza and Tulum. The people of Ek
Balam used several strategies to protect the sacred sites from intruders. One of the statues even has carved
figures perched on the eye lids of the monster. Archaeologists believe the purpose of these figures were there
to hold the monsters eyelids open to constantly watch for danger.
You will enter the central area of this 12 square kilometer city as the ancient ones did by being forced to bend
your body in reverence as you walk forward up a steep ramp and proceed through the spectacular corbel arch
that is uniquely open on all four sides. You will see two indented stones on the floor, just big enough to fit a
foot. Perhaps this was a purifying ritual that was required before entering the sacred city? Because of the
steepness of the ramp leading down from the arch into the city, it is believed that it was customary to precede
down backwards with your body, once again, bent in reverence to the gods.
Many of the buildings surrounding the site were actually used as living quarters. Shards of pottery used for
daily living were found inside the ruins, along with built-in stone beds. Some of the remains of the paintings on
the walls inside these structures showed people sitting in the lotus position on pillows. Did you know that the
early Mayans did not sleep in hammocks? These were introduced to the Yucatan peninsula with the arrival of
the Spaniards who brought with them natives they picked up along the way in the Caribbean Islands who were
accustomed to sleeping in these woven beds.
Fifty-two structures have been found to date, and include many that were believed to have been used for
religious purposes, while others were for administration, daily living, or games. The outside of these buildings
were plastered and painted red, and the interior walls were painted yellow and decorated with frescos painted
in a palate of colors derived from native plants. One of the two ball courts excavated has been restored to its
original splendor. At the far end of the historical site sits the building known as the Acropolis. This spectacular
building is the second largest of its kind in the Yucatan. The largest is in the “yellow city” of Izamal.
In 2000 the royal tomb was discovered behind the imposing open-mouth of the monster located half-way up an
impressive stairway. In the past, this image was believed to be a jaguar, as the name Ek Balam means black
jaguar or bright star jaguar. With further study and investigation, archaeologists know that the coxox or witz
monster at the entrance of the tomb is a mixture of all the creatures that inhabit the earth. It has combined
qualities of a feline, a serpent, and a human. The tomb is guarded by a winged human-like creature on either
side of the opening that was believed to lead to the underworld. We know the Mayans did not believe in
angels, hence another mystery. These winged creatures may have been ancestors, as they have club feet,
and other deformities. The deformities were a result of the inbreeding between members of the royal family.
The statues guarding the eyes of the monster were very similar to statues found in Cambodia. Juan, one of
the assistant archaeologists, that were involved in the most recent excavation, told us that he believes that the
connection between these two distant cultures is only a myth. He personally did not discover any remnants of
pottery or jewelry from the Eastern culture inside the tomb, and he will vouch for the fact that the stature is a
young man, not a woman as in the Cambodian statues.
The human remains of a royal person were found inside the mouth of the monster. Buried with his bones
were over 7,000 treasures including jewelry, shells, and clay vessels. Three objects had the name of the royal
king, Kulh Nal, on them and the elongated shape of the skull found in the tomb indicated indeed this person
was of royal linage.
As is typical in other Mayan ruin sites, there is evidence that structures were built upon structures. There
could have been as many as six layers built, and rebuilt over the 1,200 years the city was inhabited. The story
of Ek Balam is still emerging, and only future excavations and studies will tell whether there actually was a
direct connection to the Far East.
After touring the ruins, you must be ready to relax your mind and body, so hook up with the Mayans at the
entrance of the park who will take you on a one- mile bike ride to the amazing cenote of X’canche where you
can rappel by a rope and harness to the bottom of the deep cavern 60 feet below to swim in the cool, sacred
water. For the faint of heart, there is now a set of stairs where you can enter and exit the cenote. The local
villagers who manage this hidden treasure are working each day to improve this area and soon the masses of
tourists will arrive, so plan a trip to visit this area of the Yucatan without delay.
Driving out of the archaeological site, on the right about 100 meters down the dirt road, you will see a small
open air restaurant. Stop for some delicious ceviche and a cold beer with plenty of lime slices before letting the
mariposas lead you back to your elegant jungle B&B.
Articles written by Mari Pintkowski, author of Embarking on the Mariposa Trail now available on www.amazon.
com, as well as the Mezzanine boutique, Alma Libre in Puerto Morelos, and Mundo Book Store in Playa del
Carmen. Mari and her husband own the jungle retreat near Tulum www.laselvamariposa.com
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